hot butteries
“My grandmother talks about having hot butteries in Scotland, when she visited years ago. These are Scottish breakfast rolls, also know as flouries. It’s a hybrid of the croissant and a breadroll, and slightly less rich, but still laden with butter. The famous cook Elizabeth David once said: ‘They don’t look as showy as the croissants, but for all their homely appearance, I prefer them in some ways’.”
hot butteries
prep time 1 hr, plus 2 hrs proving | cook time 20 mins
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) strong ‘00’ plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting
1 x 7 g (¼ oz) sachet dried yeast
1 tablespoon sea salt flakes
1 tablespoon soft brown sugar
350 ml (12 fl oz) warm water, plus extra
vegetable or rice bran oil, for greasing
250 g (9 oz) unsalted butter
honey, jam or similar, to serve (optional)
In a large bowl, mix together flour, yeast, salt and sugar until combined. Make a well in the centre and gradually add the warm water in a thin stream, stirring with a wooden spoon and incorporating more flour from the sides as you mix – you may need a little more water. The mixture should come together as a dough.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead lightly for 8–10 minutes, or until smooth and elastic.
Transfer the dough to a clean, greased bowl and cover the surface with plastic wrap that has been dusted with flour. Put the bowl in a warm place to prove (rise) for 1 hour, or until dough has doubled in size.
Meanwhile, use an electric mixer to cream the butter in a medium bowl until it is pale and creamy, then use a spatula or knife to divide it into four equal amounts.
Roll out dough into a 20 x 40 cm (8 x 16 in) rectangle, about 1 cm (½ in) thick. If it ‘seizes up’ while you’re trying to roll it, leave it alone for 2 minutes to relax, then come back to it.
To fold the butter into the dough, turn dough around so shortest edge is facing you. Spread one portion of butter over bottom two-thirds of dough. Fold the clean one-third of dough over centre third of rectangle, then fold the bottom third of mixture over the folded dough. You will end up with a rectangle three times its original thickness.
Roll out dough to same size as before. Spread another quarter of the butter over the bottom two-thirds of the dough rectangle, and repeat folding process. Roll out the dough again and repeat twice more to use up remaining butter portions, then roll out again to original size.
Lightly grease two baking trays and line with baking paper. Use a knife to cut dough into twelve even pieces – in half vertically, then in six pieces horizontally. Shape each piece into a slightly flat bun – like a chocolate croissant but with rounded edges (tuck edges under so tops are smooth).
Transfer the butteries to the prepared trays, cover with plastic wrap dusted with flour and set aside in a warm place until they have doubled in size. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F).
Bake for 18–20 minutes, or until they have risen and are golden-brown. Cool on a wire rack, or serve hot with butter, or your favourite condiment.
This recipe appeared in Margaret and Me (Murdoch), my third cookbook. Photography by Rob Palmer. Styling by Michelle Noerianto.