Vietnamese phở

“Let’s just say our thanks for a moment to the scores of amazing Vietnamese restaurants we have in Australia. I mean seriously, we’re blessed and I could tuck in for the largest bowl of broth with balls and rare beef and brisket and slurpable messy noodles any day. But takeaway, and apologies to addicts, is not right. The noodles get pudgy and the beef is not rare, and even when they put them in seperate containers (apologies, meanwhile to the earth for double plastics just for dinner), you have to heat the broth and it’s all blah. Better, much better, to have a good stock of stock in the fridge, ready to go. I make these with short ribs if you want to go all out, but you can use brisket instead, or the balls if you have them. The stock/broth should be slightly sweet and peppery, strong and aromatic, but not too much of anything. It’s a balance, and the only way to get it perfect is practice. So go on, get cracking on that, it’s the season for pho. ”

— kate

serves 6-8 | prep time 15 mins | cook time 3 hrs

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) beef marrow bones, cut into 8–10 cm (3¼–4 in) lengths
2 kg (4 lb 8 oz) meaty short ribs, cut into 8 cm (3¼ in) lengths
750 g (1 lb 10 oz) oxtail, cut into joints
2 tablespoons peanut or rice bran oil, plus extra
2 large onions, peeled and thinly sliced lengthways
6 cloves
4 whole star anise
2 cinnamon sticks
1 teaspoon sichuan peppercorns
1 x 8 cm (3¼ in) piece ginger, peeled and thickly sliced
80 ml (2½ fl oz ⅓ cup) good-quality fish sauce, plus extra (optional)
2 teaspoons soft brown sugar
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
250 g (9 oz) sirloin or fillet beef steak
400 g (145 oz) dried flat Asian rice (banh pho) noodles
1 small handful coriander (cilantro) sprigs
3 spring onions (scallions), thinly sliced, to serve
bean sprouts, to serve
thinly sliced fresh red bird’s eye chillies, to serve
2 limes, halved, to serve

Put marrow bones, short ribs and oxtail in a large stockpot, cover with cold water, bring to the boil over high heat and cook for 5 minutes to remove impurities. Drain, discarding the water, and rinse the meaty bones. Pat bones dry with paper towel and clean the pot.

Heat half the oil in the same pot and brown marrow bones, short ribs and oxtail in batches, searing on all sides for 5–8 minutes, or until well browned. Do not crowd pot. Transfer each batch to a plate as it is cooked.

Tie the cloves, star anise, cinnamon and sichuan peppercorns in a little muslin bundle with string.

In the pot, heat remaining oil on medium–high. Add onions and sauté until golden brown and well done, but not burnt. Add spice bundle, ginger, fish sauce, marrow bones, short ribs, oxtail and sugar to pan, cover with about 5 litres (170 fl oz/20 cups) of cold water and bring to a simmer (do not boil) over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer, skimming the top for scum occasionally, for 2–2½ hours, until meat is very tender.

Using tongs, transfer the meat to a board. Discard any bones and membranes, then cut meat across the grain into 5 cm (2 in) lengths, and shred any remaining meat with your fingers.

Strain broth through a fine sieve, discarding solids. Skim any fat off the top, using a large flat spoon, and discard. Season broth with salt to taste, then pour it back into the cleaned pot. Bring to a gentle simmer – do not boil.

Season the steak with salt and pepper and coat with 1 teaspoon of oil. Heat a small frying pan over a high heat and sear the steak for 1 minute on each side, or until brown, but not cooked through. It should still be very rare on the inside. Let rest for 5 minutes, then slice very thinly across the grain. Set aside.

Put the noodles in a large bowl, cover with boiling water and leave for 10 minutes, or until just soft. Drain and divide between bowls. To serve, divide the meat of different cuts (except steak) between the bowls. Scatter over coriander, spring onion and bean sprouts, then ladle over hot stock. Divide sirloin or beef fillet between the bowls and offer chillies to scatter and limes for squeezing. Offer extra fish sauce, if liked.

This recipe appeared in Margaret and Me (Murdoch), my third cookbook. Photography by Rob Palmer. Styling by Michelle Noerianto.