We really don’t need a recipe. All we do is douse prawns in homemade or Kewpie mayo that you’ve spiced with smoky chipotle or similar, finely chop celery and layer with watercress sprigs in a quality roll for lunch. The result is greater than the sum of its parts, totally delicious.

There’s this place in downtown New York called the Pearl Oyster Bar, which does the most darling lobster rolls. Lobster doused in mayo comes in this soft brioche roll with shoestring fries on the side. Ah, sigh. This is my cheaper version, which I do when I’m dreaming of the Big Apple or when I have cooked prawns on hand.

For the commuters among us: have all the different components of this roll ready the night before as you’ll probably be in a rush in the morning. Then simply mix them together and assemble in the wee hours.