A new Bali is emerging with a high-end gloss that belies its reputation as a backpackers’ haven. Traditionally, the traveller wanting to avoid Kuta’s carnival atmosphere would leave Ngurah Rai Airport and literally head for the hills – to the mountains of Ubud and Bali’s ubiquitous rice fields. But a new-look Bali has evolved. Well-heeled travellers are shunning the traditional tourist hot spots of Kuta Beach for polished dining and shimmering beachfront bars.
WHERE TO GO
Those repelled by Kuta’s razzamatazz are drawn to the champagne effervescence of Seminyak – its funky bars, restaurants and shops. Bali’s traditional Batik design is virtually absent in high-end shopping areas such as Jalan Oberoi (Oberoi Street), now also called Jalan Laksmana, in Seminyak. In its place are slinky beachwear, khaki hipsters and hand-made jewellery. This is the island’s undisputed glamour hub.
For a pure Balinese haggling experience, head to Kuta and Legian, both bargain-hunters’ paradises. Bali’s famous shopping strip, Jalan Legian starts in Kuta for sarongs and souvenirs, and turns into the more upmarket Jalan Raya Seminyak at the other end for designer threads and homewares.
Sample any one of the local markets for local fruit and wares. Denpasar’s Kumbasari Market is a five tier indoor block for serious bartering. The air around the markets is heavy with smells of overripe fruit and Balinese spice-scented cigarettes. Baskets of frangipanis, hydrangeas and jackfruit cover the front steps, and rows of stalls offer tubs of dried fish, chillies, eggs and deep-fried dough seeped in sugary syrup.
Explore more isolated parts of the Island of the Gods with Waka Tours, which your hotel should be able to organise for you. Picking you up in a Land Rover, a day trip takes you to the hills and Bali’s terraced rice fields. Driving over hills with views reminiscent of Apocalypse Now, the Land Rovers stop so you can take in breathtaking views down valleys of rice fields. On arrival at the rainforest camp, you are greeted with a banquet of traditional Balinese food, including jackfruit soup and the all-time favourite satay chicken. Try the apple pie served with wild rice pudding and coconut sauce (www.wakaexperience.com or call +62 361484085).
Dance in Bali has its roots in rituals, and generally represents the flux of good and evil. During your stay, see a graceful Legong dance, which is performed by Balinese girls. Compare this to the more boisterous Kecak, arguably the most famous Balinese dance. A large choir of bare-chested men sway, clap and chant to hypnotic music. The best place to see these dances is in the cultural centre, Ubud.
WHERE TO STAY
At the five star Conrad Bali Resort and Spa (above) in Tanjung Benoa, the cool vibe hangs as high as the rafter ceilings in the lobby and as low as the funky Converse sneakers worn by all staff. The resort’s beachfront is dotted with balé huts where you can read in the shade and hear nothing but the soft breeze and the sound of your own voice ordering a cocktail. Kids will love the lagoons dotted all over the Resort, and the organised bike tours into nearby Nusa Dua. Splurge on a meal at the Resort’s restaurant Spice, which makes up in stunning gastronomy what it lacks in view (www.bali.conradmeetings.com or call +62 361778788).
A stay in Bali is not complete without a stop in the hills of Ubud, and there is possibly no place to stay more naturally beautiful than the Royal Pita Maha hotel at Kedewatan (below). Commanding spectacular views of the Sungai Ayung gorge, some rooms overlook the valley, while villas in the village sit happily between the river and a man-made lagoon (www.royalpitamaha-bali.com or call +62 361980022).
WHAT TO EAT
As the afternoon light turns gold in Bali, the island’s smart set descend on the beachfront bar and restaurant Ku De Ta in the area Seminyak, at 9 Jalan Laksamana. Texting and rubber necking in white cushioned teak recliners under wide frangipani trees, the elegant clientele sip Long Island iced teas and Ku De Ta Bellinis. Balinese cigarettes, scented with cloves and spices, fill the evening air as the sun sets on the Indian Ocean, which you shouldn’t miss. Children can play in the paddling pool at Ku De Ta as parents dine on foie gras on toast. Try the carpaccio of beef with rocket leaves and wood fired bread for entrée and the single plump ravioli filled with pumpkin and walnut with sage butter as a main.
Until terrorists hit Bali in October 2005, every type of tourist loved an evening under the stars on Jimbaran beach. Post attack, it would have been conceivable that this dining precinct on Bali’s must-do list would be crossed off forever. But, only a month later, one of the Jimbaran Bay Fish Huts, Nyoman Café (pronounced Newman), re-opened its wooden tables for diners on a budget. With security still keeping a reassuring presence, visitors can again feast on deep-fried fish, lobsters, calamari and Kuta’s ubiquitous Bintang beer. It is one of four thatched-roof beachside restaurants servicing hungry crowds that flock to eat fish by candlelight. Again, it’s best to go for sunset. For those seeking good food, it is a cheap way to enjoy the seclusion not easily found in boisterous Kuta. Try the squid cumi cumi or prawn windu as well as more familiar chicken satay.
If you have chosen the hills of Ubud to rest your head, try one of the area’s most popular traditional eateries, which has recently opened in Kuta as well. The Kafe Batan Waru offers fish roasted in banana leaves, mountain fern tips with coconut and spices, and Manadonese fish head soup on its varied menu.
Learn to cook your own Balinese extravaganza at the Casa Luna Cooking School in Ubud. Including shopping trips, cooking and lots of tasting, the classes give you an insider’s view into Balinese culture and culinary myths and truths. Make your own fern salad, tempe curry and mie goring (www.casalunabali.com or call +62 361973282).
